March 5, 2021

The quality of a bar or a three star will survive

elBulli went from having no diners at its start to being recognized several times as the Best Restaurant in the World, that is why Ferran Adrià knows what crises are and how to survive and believes that “quality” will come out of this pandemic, whether in a snack bar or a three Michelin star.

In his speech on Gastronomika Live, an online version of the San Sebastián Gastronomika congress, Adriá recognized that “surviving” is the word he has heard most from his colleagues since the COVID-19 crisis began, and with it, the of bars and restaurants forced to close and with an uncertain de-escalation plan.

For this and to save the 1.7 million hospitality jobs, he considers it essential “to make ERTES and ICO credits as flexible as possible and for Europe to help (…) If ERTES run out on May 30 and you have to readmit all workers being at 20% of turnover is impossible. “

He does not throw more balls on the roof of the Government, “overwhelmed” in the face of an exceptional situation and with many open fronts, to whom he thanks for having listened to the requests of the sector through the Minister of Industry, Commerce and Tourism, Reyes Maroto. “In the rest of the world they are not doing much better,” he adds.

In this pandemic panorama, Adrià, who was recognized by the American magazine Time as one of the 100 most influential people in the world, believes that those who bet on quality and good management will survive, “be it a sandwich bar or a three-star Michelin. “

Remember that you have to adapt to new circumstances, as Noma (Copenhagen), also recognized as Best Restaurant in the World, has done, that René Redzepi decided to reopen as a wine bar “because it does not have much space in the dining room and because 65% of his clients are tourists. “

In fact, he announces that Heart Ibiza, the restaurant he has with his brother Albert Adrià and El Circo del Sol on the island, will not open this summer because international flights are not expected.

“The million dollar question is when to open, when does normality come from normality. The ‘new normality’ worries me a lot in hospitality, not only for the spaces in the rooms and the kitchen, but also for the clients. We must be aware that it won’t be easy, “he adds.

In this process of the “new normal” is now Shanghai (China), with an average occupancy of 20% in the restaurants that opened in early April, according to their data. “If you do not reach 50% occupancy you do not earn money, and in a gastronomic if you do not fill 70% palmas pasta”, he warns.

However, he believes that the gastronomic sector is the one that has “the most talent in Spain”, that it was capable of making a “world” revolution “without aid”, which is why it is confident that it will succeed, even if there are casualties along the way. “Is haute cuisine going to die? What do you say? Just like Louis Vuitton will continue,” he exclaims.

To help the necessary training of professionals in the sector, Ferran Adrià anticipates that he will offer ‘online’ the content of his work “What is cooking. The action: cooking. The result: kitchen”, the “most important” work of his career .


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