The great geniuses of fashion continue to inspire



Madrid, Sep 18 (EFE) .- The spirit of Viktor & Rolf, Issey Miyake, Óscar de la Renta and Stéphane Rolland, among other great geniuses of fashion, is present in the pleated and volume couture of Isabel Sanchis, while the talent of the Spanish Mariano Fortuny lives in the proposals of Pilar Dalbat.

Many of the proposals of the 74th edition of the Madrid catwalk come wrapped with a halo that recall great creators. And, it is understood, the good and the beautiful are liked by everyone, more when craftsmanship is present.

“This collection highlights the trades and crafts of fashion,” explains to Efe this Saturday Paula Maiques, daughter of Isabel Sánchis, founder of the firm, present in more than 40 countries, such as Italy, France, Switzerland, the United States , Singapore, China, Panama, South Africa, United Arab Emirates or Qatar, among others.

Embroiderers, metal craftsmen and pleaters are some of the trades present in the Valencian firm in which the poetic pleats of Issey Miyake also appear.

This does not detract from the work of mother and daughter who have trade, mastery of the garment pattern, in addition to spending many hours researching and experimenting with fabrics to create party garments.

In parallel, designs with more volume in the style of Viktor & Rolf, Óscar de la Renta or Stéphane Rolland, a series of dresses in which a flower-shaped piece made with sustainable material has stood out, “a thread made with PET bottles”, he says. Paula Maiques who tries on everything in the workshop to know first-hand “if the clothes are comfortable or not”.

A collection “with lots of light, that inspires joy and positivity and that celebrates creativity and craftsmanship,” adds Paula Maiques, who on this occasion declines black and opts for shades ranging from fluorine pink to pistachio green, through oranges and blue, many of them finished with an iridescent patina.

Sharon Stone, Isabel Preysler, Mar Flores, Chiara Ferragni, Tamara Falco, Anne Igartiburu, Sonam Kapoor, Laura Whitmore and Nicole Kimpel are some of Isabel Sanchis’ clients who this time return to work on flowers, the hallmark of the house along with quality.

Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo (Granada, 1871-Venice 1949) is the source of inspiration for Pilar Dalbat, who with this new collection closes his particular tribute to one of the great names in fashion, which this year marks the 150th anniversary of his birth. .

“I have had little time to prepare it, but I am happy with the result”, explains shortly before the parade, the Granada designer president of the Fortuny Association.

Garments inspired by Venice, the city where he went to visit his workshops, where the “teacher” carried out “much of his productive activity”.

“Dedicating a collection to her figure was too short for me”, a reason why she once again resorts to the study of her work and her painting techniques to reinterpret the mythical “Delphos” and her pleating work with digital techniques on dresses and blouses. .

The fun and carnival spirit of the city is printed in the fabrics chosen by Dalbat where purple, aqua green, gold or glitter are present.

“It is a fun collection, with which I intend to rescue its essence, being faithful to my creations and my style,” says the designer, who has always opted for straight lines sobriety.

“I wanted to present the dress as simple as possible, with a straight silhouette, also caftans, very akin to the Fortune universe” and gowns and wide-leg pants, high waists in cape skirt and “crop tops”, garments in which it embroiders Murano glass beads.

Accessories are the star accessory of a collection for which she has created a new line of bags.

Timeless fashion that looks towards “references that are our own” with which Dalbat wants to offer the highest possible quality, in addition to bringing “the universe closer to those who do not know it” .EFE

Carmen Martin

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