Madrid, Sep 17 (EFE) .- Garments for day and night, positive energy, joy of living, enjoying … is what the designs that have been seen this Friday on the Madrid catwalk, where Teresa Helbig and Pertegaz have presented designs to celebrate full of artisan details in search of excellence.
Excellent sewing, craftsmanship and the presence in each stitch of the desire for a woman to feel confident and willing to take over the world with her garments is Teresa Helbig’s hallmark in each of her collections.
The designer has closed today’s day of the 74th edition of the Madrid catwalk, where she celebrated the twenty-fifth anniversary of the birth of her firm and took the opportunity to make some winks to that first collection in which she herself was the model on the the designs were tested. “They were all very short,” he recalls between smiles.
Her passion for fashion began when she was a child and the cinema opened the doors to a world of “wonderful women” that she wanted to be part of, a memory that has led her to present a collection “very ‘celebrity’, super short, to celebrate “This anniversary, a proposal with touches of the sixties and seventies” a la Faye Dunaway “.
A girl’s dream that Helbig has come true: she is one of the most successful designers on red carpets. Their garments have been worn by Úrsula Corberó, Macarena Gómez, Halle Berry, Olivia Wilde or Priyanka Chopra.
In this collection he renounces the heels, “enough already, I see them stale”, he affirms, while showing elaborate raffia garments, created in a meticulous way by hand, with which each of the contours of a jacket or jacket is shaped. a skirt.
It proudly shows a new collaboration, made with a Galician weaver that combines velvet, raffia and metal applications. “If Coco (Chanel) had her tweed, we had to create ours.”
On the catwalk they have seen, delicate silk dresses embroidered with care, fur bombers with rabbit hair, leather jackets in wool crepe with a flamingo as a print.
They catch the eye, minimal skirts, which actually hide shorts and the suede game with python leather inlays, with timelessness and quality as a flag.
Along the same lines, Jorge Vázquez, creative director of Pertegaz, has made pieces for a contemporary woman revisiting the decade of the ’70s, “a moment of freedom”, which moves, with an eye on Africa, to tunics with bibs of fantasy studded with beads, kaftans with print of masks, shirt dresses and embroidered point with crystal beads.
There is no shortage of impeccable tailored suits in “animal print” of zebra and leopard, combined with a blouse with large collars with frills in intense fuchsia, a trademark tone of the house.
Vázquez, who has dressed the actress of the moment Zendaya and Sharon Stone, recalls that in the 70s fashion was revolutionized and sewing was put aside to opt for more urban garments “as it happens now that events have been reduced Pertegaz also knew how to adapt to the times “and evolved towards a tailoring with marked shoulders and even transparencies.
The Galician creator has made a nod to that stage of the house by reproducing on a dress, a psychedelic pattern of waves in fuchsia, coral, brown and white, although pants have a marked role in this collection.
Maite Casademunt, creative director of Lola Casademunt, has conceived a collection with vibrant colors with which the designer wants to convey a “feeling of vitality and happiness” with “versatile” garments where green is the protagonist on technical, fluid and very fresh fabrics.
Celebrating has also been the slogan of Roberto Torretta who closed the morning shows with an optimistic spirit, celebrating that forty years later he continues with the same passion in the world of fashion, one reason why he has presented an “emotional” collection with shirt dresses, miniskirts and outfits that are dyed in a range of green, purple, white, light blue and wheat yellow.
Hannibal Laguna, always faithful to the garments of events, has wanted to “stop and make garments that transcend time. Inspired by the cosmos, he has devised a range of black dresses with a lot of light that coexist with other designs in silver.
While Dolores Cortés has shown swimwear in a collection that evolves from terracotta colors to strong blues, with organic graphic prints that are articulated with geometric structures.
By Inmaculada Tapia