Pedro del Hierro and Roberto Verino walk through the textile industry with firm steps, they know the market, they know where they are going, and what is more important, they know their clients. And with that knowledge they have shown their respective collections. The first, festive and the second: practical and functional.
In the Real Casa de Correos, in Madrid's Puerta del Sol, the firm Pedro del Hierro, under the creative direction of Nacho Aguayo for women and Alex Miralles for men, presented this afternoon SuperBloom, the new spring-summer 2020 collection, inspired on the African continent.
Of course, they have left aside the silhouette and aesthetics of the Masai tribe and the "look" of an explorer and have shown "sophisticated garments, of natural elegance, in which the brand values are," he explained to EFE before the parade Nacho Aguayo, one of the favorite designers of Queen Letizia, who on several occasions has worn clothes that bear his signature. With good knowledge of sewing, Aguayo has shown festive garments, of certain opulence.
The parade began with a series of diurnal pieces made with rustic fabrics. Afterwards they also saw more dressed garments "that depending on how or with what they combine has one function or another", explained Aguayo, who has opted for the explosion of color with turquoises, oranges and yellows.
In this collection of "nightlife" instead of making party dresses, Aguayo has found it more interesting and attractive to put more tunics and pants and decline in all versions, "we wanted to give other options to the long dress," explains Aguayo , who proposes to dress at night with monkeys, top knotted at the neck or coat with pants. Some of the most noteworthy pieces have been a series made with Moharé fabric embroidered with silver stars and some bathing styles.
In the men's collection, Alex Miralles, has developed a line in die-cut leather – jackets, footwear, handbags – with a focus on Spanish craftsmanship. They are aware that society wants a more sustainable world, which is why they have worked on a line with ecological textiles, such as organic cotton.
Next, Roberto Verino showed the essence of the '90s through a woman who was icon of style at that time, Carolyn Bessette, the wife of John John Kennedy, an emblematic couple who died in a plane crash twenty years ago.
"Through them, especially Carolyn we wanted to recover the best years of Spanish fashion, making a nod to the '70s too," explains the Galician designer, who combines the sobriety of one decade with the romanticism of another, but in both maintain the "quality of simplicity".
With that intention he vindicates the "less is more", because it is not about "pretending but being really" and betting on "sustainability" in a real way, so that "less, but better clothes" are consumed, so as not to squander on superfluous expenses.
He considers that "it can not be better to buy a garment for a few euros and throw it away than wash it". Verino launches a message of "coherence and respect to recover values and take care of the planet.
"We must understand that we are at a time when everything is not right," says the designer who wants to recover the essence of fashion with simple lines patterns, where the diplomatic stripe, swan neck or corduroy summarize the concept of the fabrics that have managed to become "essential" in the cabinets.
Wardrobes in which this new proposal incorporates napa lamb and sheepskin, in some cases with their hair, the classic cheviot or the paintings in an approach where "functionality with style" is made complicit.
"The Spanish lamb skin is overrated outside of Spain" and from it builds a 'sport' for elegant men and women. "We have lost interest in being formal in clothing, hence both collections share colored materials," although at this point she risks more in women's collections. The collection has the collaboration of Lulu de Figueroa to create floral prints.
(tagsToTranslate) Pedro (t) Hierro (t) Roberto (t) Verino (t) individual