April 11, 2021

Loewe bets in Paris to experiment and get out of black and white


Paris, Mar 5 (EFE) .- British designer Jonathan Anderson presented this Friday a more optimistic, colorful and hopeful version of the Spanish firm Loewe with his new proposal for autumn-winter 2021/2022, with which he aspires to lead a change of mindset in the industry.

“I feel optimistic. I think that fashion can be exciting again, and I hope that after this bad taste, good ideas and experimentation will be recognized again and brands take risks,” he said in an interview after the presentation of her collection at Paris Fashion Week.

Since joining the brand, owned by the LVMH group, in 2013, Anderson has managed to place it on the fashion podium and turn its garments into collector’s items for industry fans.

This Friday, he put aside some of the safe values ​​he’s been working with at Loewe to try a color palette he’s not used to: a vibrant range of greens, blues, pinks and yellows.

Hedonism, creative delight, electric brilliance and “sex appeal” were some of the terms that the designer gave to his new line for fall.

“I am obsessed with the idea of ​​color therapy: to feel better wearing color. Right now, I am trying to use it to experiment and I am enjoying it very much, it has helped me explore new methods, who I am and my relationship with Loewe,” he said in a virtual meeting with various media, including EFE.

PSYCHODELY AND GEOMETRY

His essay resulted in a voluminous silhouette where geometric shapes predominated, queens of the patterns that color the garments. The sinuous lines alternate with the straight ones, the angles with the curves and the quilted fabrics contrast with the fluidity of straight dresses and the fringes that decorate the clothes.

Psychedelia inspires the pattern of knitted jumpers on which the Loewe logo is transformed into a die-cut leather belt; padded coats are worn as a dress, with exaggerated puff sleeves and an evolution of the “Meninas” shapes Anderson has been working with on her latest collections.

The femininity of a white dress, with pleats and a neckline with pink applications, contrasts with men’s ankle boots, or men’s platform loafers, which break the delicacy of a more elegant outfit.

“I like that way of adding height in a masculine way,” explained the creator, 36 years old.

The brand’s bags also had a great moment, with the “Flamenco” (Anderson’s favorite) model being carried in an oversized version, while the firm renewed its classic “Amazona”, an icon since its launch in 1975, in nappa of “calf” and with the anagram of the house made in “jacquard”.

THE OPPORTUNITY FOR A REVOLUTION

In the video of his collection, released on the official platform of the Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion, which organizes the official Fashion Week calendar with 100% digital shows, several models paraded in a white space, surrounded by newspapers, in what looked like a modern press room.

The Loewe newspaper advertised at the top of the page: “The Loewe show is canceled.”

An iconoclastic claim by the designer, who in these years at the helm of the brand has created a close link between fashion and art, through partnerships with photographers, artists or writers, such as the American Danielle Steel, a bestseller in the romantic novel , with which he collaborated on this occasion.

“I feel like we need to move towards a more emotional way of connecting with people outside of the fashion bubble. The industry needs to work out a new way of connecting with the public on the fringes of luxury and its concept of being there for the few.” Anderson said of the format chosen for the presentation.

The ambitious creator acknowledged that working this year in the context of the pandemic has been a challenge for him and his team, and assured that last December and January were the most difficult months.

But after finishing another collection where the most fanciful ideas come true, this Friday he was optimistic.

“At some point we are going to go out again and feel like fixing ourselves because it has been a long time since we have seen other people. It will be very interesting to see how we perceive people after so long and I think fashion will be a way of surprise when all this happens, “he said.

Maria D. Valderrama

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